Following the tracks of Yellowstone’s elusive wolves

Wolves in a snowy landscape are the main focus of my winter Yellowstone photo tour, so every effort is made to locate them and position ourselves for the best images of these amazing creatures. That was the case last week while I was leading a tour in the interior of Yellowstone National Park.

The park is closed to the public during winter due to the snowy conditions. To access the interior, we obtain special permits and hire a snow coach. These massive, monster-truck-like vehicles have 46-inch tires and four-wheel drive, which are essential for navigating the snowy backcountry and making it out safely. Even with these gigantic vehicles, we have gotten stuck in the past.

Each morning started early in the dark, with a quick breakfast and at least three layers of winter clothing before heading out to the snow coaches. We loaded up with photo gear, lunches, and water for the day. For several days, we had been tracking the wolves, spotting their tracks in the snow from their nighttime movements. Each day, we picked up their trail again.

We made predictions about where they might go – what mountain they would cross or which valley they would enter. We watched areas where bison gathered, as they are the only prey animals that remain in the dead of winter, and the wolves need to eat. Other prey, such as deer and elk, migrate to lower elevations where there is less snow.

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After many long days of finding nothing, we finally came across fresh wolf tracks. By the markings in the snow, I could clearly see that four adult wolves had passed within the past four to six hours – a promising sign. We spent the rest of the day on high alert, anticipating a sighting, but nothing transpired.

The next morning, right after breakfast, we loaded up and set out on the snow coaches in the dark. An hour and a half later, we arrived back at the area where we had seen the tracks. The sun was just peeking over the horizon, and the air temperature was well below zero. The conditions looked perfect – but where were the wolves? Nothing!

Of course, we were all very disappointed because we had all envisioned a great encounter with a pack of wolves. But nothing transpired. We decided to push farther into the park, though leaving behind the area we believed would hold wolves was difficult.

Several miles further into the interior of the park, we slowed as the snow coach struggled to plow its way up a small hill, with the sun glaring directly into our eyes. Visibility was difficult. Shading my eyes, I spotted dark figures ahead. A split second later, I could make out the outlines of several black wolves. I shouted, “Wolves!”

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My small group jumped to attention, readying their camera gear. As the snow coach reached the top of the hill and came to a stop, we all got out, immediately hit by the sub-zero air. Thankfully, there was no wind.

We saw two wolves ahead, walking away from us. When we turned around, we spotted two more climbing the hillside, heading straight toward us. We quickly began capturing images as they moved through the deep snow. One of the black wolves circled past us in a wide arc, then suddenly sat down about 180 yards away, facing us directly, and began to howl. I couldn’t believe our luck – the wolf’s fur was covered in frost from the long, cold night, and now it was howling right in front of us. A perfect picture!

The wolves continued through the snow, then walked over the ridge and out of sight. Only then did everyone start to breathe again. We gathered together, congratulating each other on such an amazing encounter. Until next time …

Editor’s note: Stan Tekiela’s NatureSmart column appears twice a month in the Eden Prairie Local News. Tekiela is an author, naturalist, and wildlife photographer who travels extensively across the United States to study and capture wildlife images.

You can follow his work on Instagram and Facebook. He can be contacted via his website at www.naturesmart.com.